å Roxane & Romilly: Maintaining Romilly

Maintaining Romilly

As a used Romilly owner I would like to discuss maintaining and surveying my Romilly for maintenance and wear. Ry12 built by Bridgend in 1997 shows wear consistent with the years.

Carbon fibre mast foot epoxy base cap cracks in the joint between carbon and epoxy.
Flex points at foot show paint flex shear.

Shackle knuckle at mast head from slight pin wear, and bronze mast head fitting wear at shackle.

Bumpkin cap joint between carbon and epoxy.

All loose bolt cleats at tie down points (single nut).

Rudder gudgeon wiggle and wear at lower joint.

Teak to bow caulking.

Worn rotational mast base lock pins at foot to hull union (main and bumpkin).

Fibre-glass joint between seats and cabin.

Overall the boat is wicked awesome, gurt lush, beautifully built and a joy.

Trailer – well, everything is worn.

What are your experiences and remidies?
Bob

    1. Tony Hockley says:

      This design for a bearing out spar on a Drascombe might help? http://www.hopwood.uk.net/Drascombe%20projects/Bearing%20out%20spar.htm


    1. David says:

      I too have a Romilly, no 29, built by Bridgend which I sail out of Salcombe. She sits on a swinging mooring which has contributed to wear in both the rudder pintles and the bottom bearing. I have rectified the upper two pintles by making two new ones from bronze but would be interested to hear what you did about the bottom bearing as I am not sure how to go about it.
      Do you or anyone else know if the bottom gudgeon has a removable bush and does the tapered pin unsrew out of the rudder?
      David


    1. Bob Starbird says:

      I repaired my rudder pintles with epoxy last year with very good results. The base and transom had play from rocking on the mooring. With a small length copper plumbing pipe (2 inches) and duct tape, I fashioned a molding to a micrometer measured diameter for the base. With the rudder removed and inverted, the copper tube provided a pouring mold for the epoxy and colloidal silica filler. The pipe and duct tape provided a very close match to the diameter of the original pintle so it fit securely for the pour. One layer of duct tape applied inside the pipe provided a margin of adjustment to the diameter. I coated the surfaces with petroleum jelly to prevent epoxy adhesion. I also added a 1 mm thick Delrin washer to the top and bottom gudgeons (EZ-LOADER 2-5/8” O.D. Plastic Delrin Washer #290-015755). Painting with epoxy and sanding the transom pintles created a tight fit and good results.


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